Mark with a pencil. Score the top of the door with a utility knife. You don't need to score the underside because a circular saw cuts on the up stroke. The bottom cut is clean, the top cut tends to splinter. You can clamp a straight edge in place to use as a fence, or you can cut it free hand. Samurai is confident in his ability to cut it free hand so he does.
Samurai Tip: a block plane cleans up the cut edge nicely. Install top hardware plates so that the catch is at least 2 inches in from the edge of the door. If you install thge catch too close to the edge, the wheels will fall out of the the track at the short end. Install the doors: Normally, the back door is installed from the front of the closet in the back track, and then the front door is installed in the front track. The combined width of the doors should equal the width of the opening plus at least 1 inch.
Some minor variations exist among bypass door kits from different manufacturers, but they are all easy to install. Check the manufacturer's directions carefully before you start. Expect to spend an hour or so installing a pair of doors and hardware.
You'll need to finish the opening with wood jambs or drywall before you begin. Consult the manufacturer's instructions to install the track. Its position depends on how you plan to trim the opening. Screw the track to the top of the door opening. Then check to make sure the track is level; shim if necessary. When hanging bypass doors you have some options for finishing the opening. For utility applications simply hang the doors as is left. For a more finished look, add trim to one middle or both sides of the header right.
Attach the hangers to the tops of the doors. This is how we did it. I really hope this all makes sense and is helpful for anyone thinking about building bypass doors! For more of our tutorials, click here. For sources from our basement, click here. To see other rooms in our house, click here.
Beautiful…they are amazing! I hope next year my husband and I start our basement project and we will use ten tips you give us to use as reference. You house is lovely. This looks great, and the detail description is great as well. Where did you get your custom built hardware? Who custom made it for you. I linked the most similar style of bypass hardware to what we have to give people a starting point, but have not been able to find non-custom hardware sets that exactly match what we have.
However, sometimes 2 sets of 2-door hardware can be joined together to create a 4-door set if done properly. When hanging the doors do the bottom of the doors not try to swing in? Is there something that keeps them from swinging back and forth? I saw one tutorial where the door was leaning in towards the bottom it was a small version of a barn door for a cabinet but thought the if that translates to the larger doors them it would look funny in my kitchen as a pantry door.
In this version I would be worried that the front bypass doors would be leaning back at the bottom and scratch the back doors. I have built barn doors before and I have a general knowledge of the hardware. With the long excursion of each door These doors can slide a distance longer than their width how do you keep the doors on the floor guides? I would think any door moving a distance greater than the width of the door would pop off of the hardware that fits in the groove on the bottom of the doors.
We did not do floor guides with grooves — we just bolted the guides little nob-like things directly into the floor so they keep the doors in alignment but the doors are not connected to the guides with grooves.
They are really visible unless you look behind the doors. Can you give me a ballpark as to how much you paid for your custom hardware? So far, we have gotten a bid for 8K and I about fell off my chair. Ours is for 4 doors and spans 12 feet for the whole closet. Thank you! Oh my goodness! I would like to put by-pass barn doors on the unit. I am thinking that single rail by-pass hardware would be lighter than the double by- pass.
I would be using four doors. Would the cabinet need to be secured to the back wall for this to be functional? Any suggestions on how to achieve the best look?
Best of luck!
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